Cheap diving in Pulau Weh, the kingdom of eels


Around the northwest side of Pulau Weh are some sweet dive sites. I’ve never found cheaper diving anywhere in the world. It’s the low/rainy season from approximately September till March/April, and you will find yourself on empty boats. I had a great couple days where it was just me and the divemaster free to dive however we wanted. Don’t be scared by the rainy season because it’s not an all day thing. My entire week there it rained two or three times, and only in the evening or night time. The days were full of sun to soak up. Since I’m a divemaster he pretty much allowed me to enjoy myself without having to worry about keeping an eye on me. I dove with Iboih Dive Centre (IDC), which is the only dive centre on the main strip. It’s a super laid back place that only opened a year ago, so all the equipment is in perfect condition.

It was thirty-two euros for two dives and lunch, which is about US$20 per dive. With my ten percent divemaster discount I was paying US$18 per dive, amazing. They don’t skimp you on the lunch like most places with some bread or crapy fried rice. You get a coupon for a local Restaurant on the main strip, which allows you to order anything you want off the menu.


After looking at all those fish on the morning dive I would get a big fish and chips with a banana/pineapple shake. So bomb. Try to dive with Mur when you’re there. He’s a local boy, who’s been diving the area for close to ten years. Not only does he know where the best diving is, but also has an infectious energy about him. He will keep you smiling and loving life.

Mur, divemaster on Pulau Weh

Mur, divemaster on Pulau Weh

He knows the island, and can take you to some beautiful spots. Had some great dives. Batee Tokong is a wall around a small rock outcropping. It’s one of those sites that you get into swarms of thousands of fish and don’t even know where to look. There’s some giant trevally, tuna, and barracuda. We saw a white tipped reef shark being followed by two of the most massive travally that I’ve ever seen.

Pulau Weh, Sumatra dIving

Pulau Weh, Sumatra dIving

At The Canyon, a site on the west coast of the island, we saw an eagle ray, two manta rays, a turtle, many huge fish swimming in the blue, and zillions of little guys dancing all around. Saw a couple nice octopus changing colors and camouflaging into the rocks. At one of the sites, called Seulako Drift, we saw well over ten moray eels. Ive never seen so many eels. We should probably keep an eye on them because I think they’re up to something. Might be creating an army of eels to take over the Pacific, or even worse the world. They always hide half of their bodies down in the rocks so it’s quite possible they have developed legs, and at this very moment the arms are in the works. Eels taking over the world, screw that. Some were freeswiming weaving so effortlessly with the contours of the ocean floor, and others just hanging out in there domain waiting for a meal to come by.

At Batee Tokong the eels all tried to attack and bite my GoPro, and of course I forgot to press the button to start recording. I’m pretty sure they were trying to make a terrorist video for me to spread and freak everyone out. They do have some gnarly teeth and could probably swallow an infant. One was almost as big around as a human, and at one point there were three of them in one little spot all breathing deeply with an eye on us. Get to Pulau Weh, and take advantage of some of the cheapest diving you will ever find. Dive with Iboih Dive Centre, and take advantage of one of the friendliest dive shops full of smiles. Hopefully you still have time before the eels begin the attack.


About Trueworldtravels

Following my heart around the planet. Bringing to life the unique world around us through writing and photography.
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